The latest in our series of articles about our guides favourite places..Kate Hopkins picks Totnes ,and the South Hams area of Devon.
The beautiful South Hams is full of wonderful places to visit but if I can choose only one, then it has to be Totnes. Nestled along the banks of the River Dart and surrounded by lush green countryside, this vibrant historic market town boasts the best of Devon rural charm alongside a bustling high street full of independent shops and restaurants. It even has a castle!
Until the 17th century Totnes was a major cloth producing centre and one of the richest towns in the country, and many of the buildings in the town centre have changed little since that time. The old Saxon East Gate still dominates the main street and the ruins of one of the finest Norman motte and bailey castles in England still looms over the centre of town as it has since the 11th century. Climb to the castle walls and you can see for miles over the town and across some of the most beautiful scenery in Devon.
Locals often joke that Totnes is ‘twinned with Narnia’ and you can feel the unique buzz as soon as you enter the town. The Totnes community is an eclectic mix of local country folk, artists and bohemians seeking an ‘alternative’ lifestyle. Totnes was one of the first ‘transition towns in England and until recently even had its own currency, the ‘Totnes pound’. When it came to an end in 2019, the town held a ‘Celebration of life’ to say goodbye! The Bank of England even holds a set of numbered Totnes Pound notes in their archives, highlighting the initiative’s, even if brief, impact on economic history.
Come on a Friday or Saturday morning at any time of year and mingle with the crowds at the outdoor market which has been held in pretty much the same spot since the 12th century and has dozens of stalls selling everything from street food, local crafts, vinyl records and jewellery to antiques. Totnes is also a ‘foodie paradise’ with plenty of independent coffee shops and eateries boasting local and seasonal produce. Totnes likes to keep things local – when the Costa chain tried to set up shop in town there were street protests!
For those who love history, there’s a great museum run by volunteers and housed in a well-preserved Elizabethan merchant’s house; a medieval guildhall which once served as the town prison and the beautiful Church of St Mary’s on the High Street. The church dates back to the 1400s and regularly hosts music, cultural events, and free tours for visitors.
Why not combine a visit to Totnes with a tour of nearby Berry Pomeroy Castle? Reputedly the ‘most haunted castle in England’, Berry Pomeroy was once in the hands of the powerful Seymour family but now stands as a romantic ruin in a beautiful wooded valley. If you’d like to stretch your legs you might like to combine this with a walk to the beautiful ancient church in nearby Berry Pomeroy village where Hugh Grant and Emma Thompson acted out the wedding scene in the 1995 film ‘Sense and Sensibility.
From there you might choose to continue on a scenic drive through the South Hams countryside to the award-winning winery of Sandridge Barton or perhaps head to the coast and the stunning seaside town of Dartmouth. From here you could take the ferry over to Greenway, the home of local author Agatha Christie, which she described as ‘the most beautiful place on earth.’ I could go on… in this part of Devon the possibilities are endless!
